Wax Print: Trendy and Afro-chic, a closer look!

2012, the year of ethnic chic
Warm colors, graphic accessories, varied prints, fluid and light silhouettes… Africa once again inspired more than one ready-to-wear brand this year. Marc Jacobs, Burberry Prorsum, Stella Forest, Hugo Boss, as well as Etam, Asos and Mango… Masters in the art of mixing cultures, designers did not hesitate to blend continents to explore an uncharted ethnic path. Far from any tribal caricature, many of them skillfully transcended these influences from elsewhere, tempering them with Western cuts. Others preferred to combine prints and materials or infuse their silhouettes with softer, more earthy colors.
But all of them outlined a new itinerary with Africa as its clear starting point. The Wax print thus made its way onto many runways, constantly reinventing itself, to glamorize initially conservative pieces, giving them an elegance that is both contemporary and wild. Worn in small touches or as a total look, this fabric continues to seduce with the richness and variety of its prints. All the more reason to learn more about this surprising fabric…

Origin and manufacturing process – Basically, it's a simple loincloth worn by African women in their daily lives. Wax fabric is made using a wax-resist technique, with two symmetrically engraved copper rollers, following the patterns to be printed. The hollows of the rollers are then filled with liquid wax. Once the fabric is dry, it is immersed in an indigo bath before being exposed to air. Colors are applied by hand, using engraved boards on miles of fabric.
Where is it made? Surprising but true: if Africa holds the raw material for Wax – namely cotton – it is in the Netherlands (Holland) that the main producers of renowned high-quality Wax fabrics are located. Then come African countries such as Ghana, Niger, and Côte d'Ivoire. Note that the Wax production chain is now suffering from Asian competition, which is sometimes unfair when it is not downright illegal. Yes, there is also counterfeit Wax!
The meaning of Wax – You've probably noticed when you've seen African women dressed in traditional fashion on the street that there are often effigies printed on their outfits. Indeed, Wax fabric carries messages referring to daily life, popular culture, a particular event, marital relations, or the evolution of today's society. Political figures, deceased family members, African artists, proverbs, song titles or TV series… Everything can be expressed through Wax!
These designers who have bet on Wax – The time when Wax was deemed unsuitable for Western fashion because it was too flamboyant is long gone. Today, Wax is definitely fashionable… Take the case of the brand Boxing Kitten created by Afro-American Maya Amina Lake, whose collections are made exclusively with Dutch Wax fabric. She managed to establish her brand – and, the visibility of Wax – in the United States by dressing the most influential stars of pop culture, including the iconic Solange Knowles. Today, her creations and accessories are highly sought after. Other brands have since followed suit, such as Aya Morrison and Ohema Ohene. Europe, with brands like Adama Paris, and of course, Africa, are full of young talents that initiatives such as Dakar Fashion Week, the Labo Ethnik (Paris) or Ethno Tendances (Brussels) fairs have made it their mission to highlight. It's clear, we haven't heard the last of Wax!

Finally, how to wear Wax? Like all other prints, the rule is to combine fabrics with the same background color.
- If you opt for the total look, choose a bodycon dress, cut to knee length. To wear with wooden high heels or wedges. - For a top, opt for a fitted cut (tailored jacket, bustier) to pair with a plain bottom of the same tone.
- Conversely, wear a plain top over a straight skirt or tapered patterned trousers.
And above all, don't forget the accessories for color recall: raffia (from head to toe), beads, colorful feathers, wooden or braided leather jewelry…
So, ready to succumb?
To know everything about Wax, I invite you to consult the Belgian blog “La folie du wax” which greatly inspired me to write this article. You will find a lot of relevant information on the subject, compiled by a true enthusiast. http://lafolieduwax.blogspot.be

Finally, here are some good web addresses for your shopping:
Adama Paris http://www.adamaparis.com/
Aya Morrison http://www.ayamorrison.com/
Boxing Kitten http://boxingkitten.com
Lovely Notebooks http://www.lovelynotebooks.co.uk/african.html
Ohema Ohene http://www.ohemaohene.com
But also ASOS Africa http://www.asos.fr/Women/A-To-Z-Of-Brands/Africa/Cat/pgecategory.aspx?cid=15683&sh=0&pge=0&pgesize=20&sort=-1
Labo Ethnik http://www.laboethnik.com/
Ethno Tendance http://www.ethno-tendance.com/
Sources: lafolieduwax.blogspot.be – Article “Road trip ethnique” published in Tell Me n°8 (spring 2012)
Photo sources: Boxing Kitten, Burberry Prorsum, CK Jewels, 1.2.3., John Galiano Eyeswear, Lovely Notebooks, Marc Jacobs, Marni for H&M, Sacha Accessories, UGG Accessories
Article signed by Martine from the blog NappyisBeautiful.be www.nappyisbeautiful.be – July 2012